FOR DIY & CAR ENTHUSIASTS

Stop Guessing. Start Fixing.

Know exactly what's wrong with your car before you spend a dime at the shop — or fix it yourself with confidence.

The Problem

Sound Familiar?

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"The shop wants $150 just to tell me what's wrong"

You know something's off. Check engine light is on. But a diagnostic fee just to read a code? That's money you could spend on the actual fix.

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"I bought a code reader but I still don't know what it means"

P0171. Great. You Googled it — 50 forum posts, 50 different answers. Replace the O2 sensor? MAF sensor? Intake gasket? You're guessing.

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"I can do the work, I just need to know WHAT to do"

You've got tools. You've watched the YouTube videos. You just need someone to tell you the actual problem so you can fix it right the first time.

No Hardware Required

Just Describe the Problem. Wrench Figures It Out.

You don't need an OBD scanner, a code reader, or any hardware at all. Just open Wrench on your phone, describe what's going on with your car, and the AI walks you through a real diagnosis — step by step, question by question — like having a master mechanic on the phone.

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Interactive Diagnosis

Describe your symptoms — a noise, a vibration, a warning light, a smell — and Wrench asks smart follow-up questions to narrow it down. It's a real back-and-forth conversation, not a generic Google result.

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Deep & Detailed

Wrench doesn't give you one answer and stop. It digs in. When did it start? Does it happen cold or warm? At what speed? Every question narrows the possibilities until it finds the real problem.

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Is It Safe to Drive?

That noise just started on your way to work. Do you keep driving or pull over? Wrench tells you immediately — no Googling, no guessing, no panic.

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Know Before You Go to the Shop

Walk into a shop knowing exactly what's wrong. No more "well the tech says you need..." surprises. You'll know if they're telling the truth — and what a fair price looks like.

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Just Your Phone. That's It.

No hardware to buy. No software to install. No accounts to create. Open the website on your phone, type or speak your problem, and get answers in seconds.

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Want to Go Deeper? Add an OBD Adapter.

If you want live data from your car's computer — real-time sensor readings, full module scans, code clearing — grab a $15-50 Bluetooth OBD adapter. It's optional, but it unlocks the full pro experience.

See It Work

A Real Conversation — No Scanner Needed

This is what it actually looks like. Just you and the AI, working through the problem together.

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AI Diagnosis Session
No OBD adapter connected — symptom-based diagnosis
My 2016 Ford Escape makes a loud clunking noise when I hit bumps. It's gotten worse over the last few weeks.
Let me ask a few questions to narrow this down.

1. Where does the noise come from — front, rear, or hard to tell?
2. Does it clunk once per bump, or does it rattle/repeat?
3. Do you feel it in the steering wheel at all?
4. Does it happen on small bumps (road cracks) or only big ones (potholes)?
Front driver side. One solid clunk per bump. I can feel it a little in the steering wheel. Happens on pretty much every bump now even small ones.
That's very helpful. Front driver side, single clunk, felt in the steering, every bump — that pattern points to a worn suspension component on that corner. A few more:

5. How many miles on the car?
6. Have you noticed uneven tire wear on that front tire?
7. Any noise when turning at low speed (like parking lots)?
87,000 miles. Actually yeah the inside of that tire is more worn than the outside. No noise when turning.
⚠️ LIKELY: Worn front left stabilizer bar end link

Here's why I think that:
• Single clunk over bumps = classic sway bar link symptom
• Driver side only = not both links (yet)
• 87K miles = right in the failure window for Escape front links
• Inside tire wear = the alignment has shifted from the worn suspension
• No noise when turning = rules out CV joints and tie rods

🟢 Safe to drive — but the uneven tire wear will get worse.

If you want to check yourself:
Grab the sway bar link by hand and try to wiggle it. If it moves freely or clunks, that's your answer. You can see it through the wheel well — it's a small bar connecting the strut to the sway bar.

💰 DIY fix: $15-30 part, 30 minutes with basic tools (socket wrench)
🏪 Shop cost: $100-200 with alignment
📹 YouTube: Search "Ford Escape stabilizer link replacement" — dozens of tutorials

⚡ Also recommend: Get an alignment after replacing the link to stop that tire wear. $60-80 at most shops.
Ready to Go Deeper?

Add an OBD Adapter. Unlock Everything.

Love working on your own car? Grab a Bluetooth OBD-II adapter ($15-50 on Amazon) and Wrench becomes a full diagnostic scanner — with AI that analyzes your live data in real-time.

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Full Vehicle Scan

Scan all 8 modules — engine, transmission, ABS, airbags, body control, and more. Read every stored and pending code, not just engine codes.

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Live Sensor Data

Watch your engine's sensors in real-time — RPM, fuel trims, O2 sensors, coolant temp, knock, timing. The AI watches WITH you and spots problems as they happen.

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Clear Codes After Repairs

Fixed the problem yourself? Clear the check engine light right from your phone. No trip to AutoZone needed.

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AI + Real Data = Better Answers

The conversation-based diagnosis is great. But when the AI can see your actual sensor data, it goes from "probably this" to "definitely this — here's the proof."

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AI Diagnosis + Live Data
2020 Toyota RAV4 — OBD adapter connected
Check engine light is on. Car feels like it hesitates sometimes.
📡 Scanning all modules...
✅ PCM: 1 code found | ✅ All other modules clear

P0171 — System Too Lean (Bank 1)

I can see the code, but let me capture some live data to find out WHY it's running lean. Starting capture...
📊 Capturing: Engine Basics + Fuel Trims
⏱ Capture: 30.2s | 58 samples

📊 LIVE DATA RESULTS:

Short Term Fuel Trim B1: +18.4% (should be ±5%)
Long Term Fuel Trim B1: +12.7% (high — engine compensating)
Short Term Fuel Trim B2: +2.1% ✓ normal
Long Term Fuel Trim B2: +1.4% ✓ normal
MAF: 3.8 g/s ✓ normal for idle
Fuel Pressure: 39 psi ✓ normal

⚠️ LIKELY: Vacuum leak — Bank 1 (driver side)

The proof: Bank 1 fuel trims are way high but Bank 2 is perfectly normal. If it was a fuel pump or MAF issue, BOTH banks would be affected. The fact that only Bank 1 is lean means air is getting in somewhere on that side of the engine.

🔧 DIY check: With the engine running, spray carburetor cleaner around the Bank 1 intake gasket area. If the RPM changes, you found the leak.
💰 DIY fix: Intake gasket $8-15, 1-2 hour job
🏪 Shop cost: $200-400
📹 YouTube: Search "RAV4 intake manifold gasket replacement"

See the difference? Without the adapter, Wrench gives you a great diagnosis based on your description. With the adapter, it shows you the actual proof from your car's sensors. Both work. The adapter just takes it to another level.

Pricing

Pick What Works for You

Free
$0
No adapter needed

3 AI diagnosis sessions/day
Describe symptoms, get answers
Code lookup & explanation
Safety & cost estimates
Perfect for occasional car questions
Tech
$6.99/mo
Everything in Free, plus:

Unlimited AI diagnosis sessions
OBD live data & scanning
Voice control (hands-free)
Photo analysis
Full session history
Code clearing after repairs
Less than ONE shop diagnostic fee — forever
Lifetime
$399.99
Everything. Forever.

All Tech features
One payment, no monthly fees
Every future update included
Priority support
BEST VALUE — pays for itself in 5 years
Start free. Upgrade when you're ready. No pressure, no credit card required.

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